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Finished
compost resembles dark, crumbly topsoil and should bear no resemblance
to the original materials. Compost should have a pleasant earthy smell
to it. Conduct this simple test to tell if your
compost is ready to be used.
Using "unfinished," or immature, compost in the garden can steal nitrogen from garden soils; set this material aside until it is fully cured. You can store it in an open container next to your compost bin. In the fall, you can incorporate unfinished compost directly into flower or vegetable beds; the material will mature over the winter and be ready for spring plantings.
HOW TO USE COMPOST—AND HOW MUCH TO USE
If you have ever bought and used peat moss, wood chips, manure, or topsoil, then you already know how to use compost. Mix compost into flower and vegetable beds, blend it with potting soil to revitalize indoor plants, or spread it on your lawn as a fertilizer. Use coarser compost as a mulch around trees and shrubs. If you prefer finer compost, you can screen it to sift out the bigger pieces. Do not place compost as mulch directly against tree trunks, as this will damage the tree.
You can never use too much compost! The nutrients in compost are released slowly over time, so there is no risk of "burning" plants. Follow these guidelines to determine how much compost you need:
for
amending soils
for vegetables
for flowers, potted plants, & window boxes
for lawn/turf
for planting trees
for tree & shrub maintenance
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The specific amount of compost that soils need is a function of the nutrients they are lacking and the condition and the texture of the soil. Testing your soil can help determine its condition and needs. The nutrients available in compost are a direct function of the raw materials that were used to create it. A rule of thumb is to work one to two inches of compost into the top 3 to 5 inches of soil.
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Give your vegetable garden plenty of compost (either half-finished or finished) in the fall. Place several inches of compost on top of the existing bed and you can till it in in the spring. Or you can put a handful of compost in each hole when you're planting. Once plants begin to grow quickly, you can add a 50-50 mixture of soil and compost. An alternative is to mulch the plants with partially decomposed compost or materials such as grass clippings, shredded leaves, hay, or sawdust. When mulching remember that the finer the mulch material, the thinner the layer should be. Providing "heavy feeder" plants such as tomatoes, broccoli, corn, and squash monthly with half an inch of compost results in great produce. Note: If you make compost with plant cuttings or grass clippings that have been sprayed with pesticides, do not use the compost on edible crops.
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In the spring, loosen the top few inches of annual and perennial beds and mix in an one-inch layer of compost. Or, apply a one-inch layer of compost as a mulch, like other mulches, to control weeds and conserve moisture. POTTED PLANTS & WINDOWBOXES A good potting soil is equal parts loam, sand, and a quarter inch screened compost. Twice a year add an inch of compost to potted plants and window boxes. Work it into the top layer of the existing soil, removing some of the existing soil to accommodate the additions if necessary.
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When establishing new turf, lay down one to 3 inches of compost. If possible, till to a depth of 5 to 8 inches before seeding. Otherwise seed directly over the compost. On existing turf, you can treat bald spots by spreading an inch of compost over them. Work into the soil before reseeding. This will fight compaction and help keep soil diseases down. You can also topdress existing turf with one-quarter to one-half inch finely screened compost. This is easiest with a spreader, but you can use a shovel for small areas. The compost will sift down into the soil, improving its structure and providing nutrients. Over the long haul, this will mean less compaction, fewer bald spots, and a reduced need for fertilizer. For more information, see the seasonal guide to a healthy lawn (naturally).
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When planting a tree the goal is to have the soil of the root ball be as close a match as possible to the native soil. Compost can be used to amend the soil that is back-filled into the hole, but don't overdo it. If too much compost is added to the back-filled soil, the tree roots will not grow past this gold mine of organic matter, depriving the tree of the stability of a deep root system. If in doubt, don't add any kind of amendment to the hole. A simple test is to feel the soil texture. If the root ball is a sandy soil and the native soil is clay based, the tree will be fighting to survive. Applying compost to the back-filled soil will help by easing the transition between soil types, but it still does not create an ideal situation. Once the root ball is planted and back-filled, you can use compost as a mulch for existing trees.
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For an existing tree, compost is a substitute for the layer of organic matter that naturally exists on the forest floor. In this case compost is used as a mulch. Remove the grass from underneath the tree as far out as possible from the trunk. Work compost into the top one to two inches of the soil. Be careful to avoid damage to the roots. Compost not only helps to provide organic nutrients for the tree, but also reduces moisture loss and keeps the soil cool. When spreading mulch or compost around the base of a tree, keep the area closest to the trunk open and free, to prevent the tree bark from rotting and becoming diseased.
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For more
information, see
• mulching
• soil health & compost
• seasonal guide to a healthy lawn (naturally)
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